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Living Goddess

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For of all, a round of applause for living goddess Christy Turlington. Seriously, she’s been a Maybelline face since the beginning of time and has always turned it out. I loving the straight forward approach to this story photogged by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin by Vogue Paris December 2012 / January 2013, but let’s keep it real… this has to be a reappropriated H&M set. Right? Don’t be surprised to see both Christy Turlington and this exact set in H&M ads in the near future. Neither way, I love Christy, I love story and I love the styling.

[mean-and-proud.livejournal]

An Introduction To The Grateful Dead

 

Introducing Grateful Dead series on Byronesque.com – the first combined editorial and e-commerce website that treats vintage fashion with the same progressive creativity as contemporary fashion magazines and boutiques. I also happen to serve as a Contributing Editor and I’m very excited to collaborate with a passionate group of like-minds. The Grateful Dead series pays homage to the seminal people and moments in fashion history that are no longer here to push and provoke. The first installment features Simon Collins– the dean of the school of fashion at Parsons, and his ‘Grateful Dead’– The Face issue no.55. Check out the interactive feature about here. The second installment will feature a filmed interview with Agent Provocateur’s Joe Corré, who talks intimately about his dad, Malcolm McLaren– a piece I also contributed to. Look for that soon.

[Byronesque.com]

Unashamed References

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There’s times when photogs clearly want to pull a stunt and literally rip off imagery under the guise of an ‘homage.’ I have a preference for an unashamed referential approach like A Singular Blond Beauty in the latest Vogue Italia. Clearly the reference here is Donna Jordon. The story is inspired by Donna. Not regurgiated or duplicated. The stunning images were photogged by Paolo Roversi and styled by Jacob K. I’m really loving the ominous projection component found in Paolo Roversi’s imagery lately– I’m a sucker for projections and a little Donna Jordon.

[TheFashionSpot]

Japan Is Burning

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Legends in every sense of the word. Vogueing pioneers Jose and Luis Xtravaganza (among others) are featured in How to Vogue For VOGUE in the latest issue of VOGUE Japan (tongue twister). Joan Smalls is joined by some of the Ball scene’s most prized Vogueing Queens for the story photogged by Terry Richardson and styled by George Cortina. Unfortunately, I don’t think their body manipulation powers were maximized to make interesting shapes in this editorial. I’m not totally gagging but I appreciate the use of true originals. I wish the story was more kick-ass than it is. A missed opportunity really. The legendary crew was just used to as glorified chairs and props– a shame! If you are on old crusty fuck, you’ll recall Jose & Luis of the House of Xtravaganza were Madonna’s go-to Vouge experts from the Blonde Ambition era.

[TheFashionPost_JP]

Home Alone


Since Emmanuelle Alt has taken over for Carine Roitfeld as editor-in-chief for Vogue Paris issues have been bland and not as provocative. There’s seems to be a lack of direction happening with Alt at the top. Once upon a time I actually thought Alt was the ‘brains’ behind the magazine under Carine. That’s clearly not the case. Alt has proven, with her choices that there’s little be desired from Vogue Paris. Carine was the master at making me pick up the magazine and want more– 8 times out of 10 I would keep Carine’s issues as reference. Now, issues are just issues. Fashion stories are just pictures. The pages are missing the elements that made Vogue Paris my go to magazine for inspiration and awe. Even though the current images are pretty, that’s just what they are. No longer are they challenging, exciting, or interesting. If I want just pretty, I usually turn to American Vogue. In the days where print is reportedly knocking on death’s door, you need to provide the reader with something beyond beautiful pictures of clothes– I can easily get my fix from a quick Google search. Magazines still say a lot about a brand, gives credibility, and a tangible thing revel in. All that said, I need a point view, an aesthetic and I want “it,” whatever “it” may be to contribute to my life in some way. The latest cover (above) featuring Carla Bruni Sarkozy, photogged by Mert & Marcus, is nice but it doesn’t make me want to dive in and see more. It’s just a ‘beauty’ shot. Unfortunately, the only interesting thing about the Carla cover is the Photoshopped color to match the denim shirt. Alt really has to step up her game since Carine’s latest adventure– CR Fashion Book, has sold out globally. Not an easy for a high-priced magazine/book, but it’s a testament to Carine’s reign. Even when Carine Roitfeld did ‘beauty’ covers, they had a point of view with fashion (below). Ultimately, that’s the problem. When Carine walked, so did the point of view. No shade, Alt has huge heels to fill. Perhaps she has a master-plan that has very little to do with styling or making iconic imagery. Could she be gunning to Paris’ version on Anna Wintour? Sure seems likely. When I think of Anna I don’t think about brilliant styling. I think of a queen- smart, methodical, and powerful. How Anna arrived there is something to be studied by science. But can Alt do the same? It might be the only way to shake the Carine out.


Styling vs. Design


I keep being asked what I think about this Alexander Wang at Balenciaga business. So, here it is. I haven’t really been moved to post anything as I don’t think it’s good or bad that Wang is taking the reigns from one of the most exciting fashion minds my generation has seen– Nicolas Ghesquière. It’s transparent to me. This was a business decision. There’s tons of talk about how Wang is derivative and lacking in couture skills. Personally, I believe Wang’s new appointed position had less to do with talent – or lack of – and more do with PR. Wang is a press darling that can do no wrong. Even after his recent sweatshop allegations – which are disgusting, if proved true – he’s managed to dust-off and stay at the top of his game. There’s a cocky disregard and/or confidence that’s palpable about Wang. The reality of his minimalist aesthetic is rooted in styling – images of “models off duty” – with strong unapologetic cues. Not a traditional design approach per se. Perhaps that is the main issue that critics are unable to articulate. Wang sells items and an aspirational “look,” not innovation or avant-grade design. I don’t think that is wrong. Wang has a magical way of taking what’s happening on the street and reinterpreting it for his runways. He’s an undeniable branding and marketing genius. I find him as fascinating as Nicolas Ghesquière but for obviously different reasons. In his short career he’s managed to carve out an identity and has designed pieces that I can call out in a line-up. Not an easy thing for a young designer to do. America has a sea of designers that are all somewhat interchangeable. Wang stands out in that sea of sameness. Wang’s new position will give him resources to help move his namesake to a higher fashion level. Without a doubt we’ll be seeing a higher “designer” sense and innovation from him should he mange to utilize the well-oiled (and extremely creative) machine what Ghesquière has left for him to play with at Balenciaga. Let’s just hope he doesn’t fuck it up. Wang’s first collection for Balenciaga will definitely be sought-after, whether it’s right or wrong. That might be exactly the reason why he’s there. Balenciaga is a house that’s at the top of its game, as is Wang, and neither can afford to fail. It’ll be interesting to watch how both brands evolve and influence one another.

Image by Sebastian Kim

Editorial Du Jour

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I’m at a loss of words. This editorial in the latest i-D Magazine #322 is everything! If You Don’t Know What a Word Means Look It Up in the Dictionary was photogged by Colin Dodgson and styled by Alastair McKimm. The human (model) as art and the athletic meets high fashion meets ghetto is spot on.

[i-D]

Notorious

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Damn, damn, and damn. Two of the most legendary and notorious models unite – Naomi & Kate. Check out their story in the latest Interview Russia, December 2012, photogged by Mert & Marcus and styled by – another legend – Patti Wilson. It’s so hard to believe that these are the same ladies I idolized as a little gay youth. As long as there’s digital manipulation in this world, these ladies will werk. Trust.

[Fashionspot]

Beauty Dictators of The Industrialized World


My heart bleeds for a good stylist– they hold the key to memorable images and communicating an idea thru fashion. Ever wonder what a million years of style looks like in one sitting? Take a look at the preview for the HBO Documentary In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye, which drops on December 6. The doc features historical contributions from Vogue editors past and present including: Polly Allen Mellen, Grace Coddington, Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, and Camilla Nickerson. I can’t wait. I just don’t get enough of my fav cat lady! American Vogue is the undisputed fashion bible of the world. It may not be the most risk-taking, but it does have a well oiled PR machine behind it.

[Vogue]